Yunnan province in China — Yunnan — Southwest China

Kunming’s Parks and Temples — Living Rooms Without Walls

January 2026 · Kunming, China

Before my Adventure China began in 2010 I wasn’t much of a park goer — what was there to see other than some flower beds?

China changed that completely.

Here, parks are not decorative extras. They are ecosystems of everyday life. Yes, there are carefully tended gardens, ponds with reflections that seem almost staged, winding paths, seasonal flowers, small concessions, playgrounds, and the occasional amusement corner.

But what makes them unforgettable is the people.

Parks feel like extensions of living rooms — only without walls. Instead of worrying about disturbing the neighbors, music is brought outside. Instruments appear. Dancing begins. Cards shuffle. Mahjong tiles click. Birds in cages hang from branches. Someone practices calligraphy with water on the pavement. Someone else simply sits and watches.

Nothing could be more serene.
Nothing could be more alive.

The temples add their own layer — color, incense, stillness. Some adults pray quietly. Some simply pause. And sometimes the reflections in the temple ponds take your breath away without a single word being spoken.

Next time, we’ll listen to — and even smell — rush hour traffic.

Huh?
Yes. No typo.

Wenmiao — A Temple Without Its Crowd

Confucian temples were once more than places of ritual. For centuries, they anchored civic life — symbols of education, order, and shared moral space. In modern China, many of them have been carefully restored as cultural heritage sites, preserved with precision and pride.

What has quietly changed is their social function. The architecture remains vibrant, the courtyards symmetrical, the paint fresh. But the everyday life that once unfolded so naturally within these walls seems to have shifted elsewhere — leaving behind spaces that feel both beautifully maintained and subtly transformed.

Weathered stone and wooden entrance gate of Wenmiao seen from the street, modest and slightly worn.

The weathered gate — an entrance that barely hints at what lies inside.

Intricate red and green temple gate and structure inside Wenmiao, richly painted and well maintained

What looks worn and insignificant from outside suddenly feels freshly painted once you step in.

Interior of the main temple hall at Wenmiao with colorful painted beams and decorative ceiling, largely empty without statues or furnishings.

Ornate ceilings above — but the hall itself stands strangely empty.

Stepped rectangular pond at Wenmiao in Kunming, enclosed by red metal railings and stone benches, viewed through the painted wooden beams of the temple pavilion.

The pond’s stepped geometry — a design I haven’t seen elsewhere in China.

Small arched stone bridge enclosed within a square stone balustrade structure over green water at Wenmiao.

Stone, water, and geometry — a miniature bridge enclosed like a quiet secret.

Empty paved path leading toward temple buildings at Wenmiao, noticeably quiet and without visitors.

Where are the card tables? The mahjong tiles? The familiar afternoon debates?

Group of elderly people playing cards and mahjong at Wenmiao in 2012, the park lively and social.

This is how it looked in 2012.

Yuantong — Where Stillness Moves

If Wenmiao feels composed and reflective, Yuantong Temple radiates quiet vitality.

One of Kunming’s oldest Buddhist temples, it remains an active place of worship — incense rising, visitors bowing, monks moving quietly between halls. Water sits at the heart of it all — ponds and reflections, even when the lotus containers rest empty in winter. The architecture is carefully maintained, but here the stillness is not archival — it is alive.

The courtyards are calm, yet never empty.

Some places preserve memory.
Others continue it.

Large decorated entrance gate inside Yuantong Temple park in Kunming, with traditional Chinese architectural details.

The imposing gate at the entrance — stepping through feels like crossing a threshold into another world.

Worker repairing roof tiles of a temple building at Yuantong Temple; inset image shows a painter restoring painted wooden beams.

Keeping temple and park this meticulous is a labor of love. This time it was the roof receiving attention. In 2012, I watched a painter — almost an artist — restore the carved beams.

Small pagoda at Yuantong Temple with its former access path lined by decorative planters and no longer open to visitors.

This small pagoda is no longer accessible. The former pathway has transformed into a corridor of planters.

Perfect reflection — a calm that spreads far beyond the water’s surface.

Rear pond at Yuantong Temple reflecting stone walls and textured rock surface, with water gently rippling.

Once home to piles of turtles and frogs, this quiet pond now holds some of the temple’s most delicate reflections.

From the first time I saw these shifting reflections, they carried a quiet pull — the kind that makes you linger without noticing time.

Daguan — The Return of the Seagulls

Every winter, thousands of black-headed gulls travel more than 2,000 kilometers from Siberia to spend the season in Kunming. For decades, the city has welcomed them. Locals gather along the lake, call them, photograph them. Children squeal. Vendors now sell proper bird feed mixes instead of bread. The gulls rise, circle, settle — and return again the next year.

Coming from Vancouver Island, where seagulls are as common as pigeons elsewhere, I never felt the urge to seek them out in Kunming. Yet standing at Daguan Lake, watching the flock lift off at once and sweep back in a white arc over the water, I understood the appeal. It isn’t about rarity. It’s about ritual.

A chorus of voices, a handful of feed — and the sky suddenly fills with wings.

People standing in a lakeside pavilion at Daguan Park in Kunming watching a large flock of seagulls over the water.

Saturday afternoon in the park — relaxed, unhurried, simply present.

Colorful flowerbeds in bloom at Daguan Park with an arched white bridge in the background.

Another “lake” — just as inviting.

Bare winter trees reflected clearly in the calm lake at Daguan Park under a blue sky.

Yet another day of blue skies and crystal-clear reflections.

Green Lake Park — Familiar, Yet Always New

Over the years I’ve visited Green Lake Park so often that my memories of it are vivid — reflections on the water, flowers in bloom, music and dancing on every corner, ethnic costumes, snack stands, the lively chatter of old and young. This time, those impressions felt so present that I forgot, for a moment, that for most of you it would all be new.

Two couples standing and sitting by Green Lake Park in Kunming, reflected clearly in the calm water with a bamboo grove behind them.

Nibble on a snack, chat with a friend, or simply let your thoughts drift

Tall bamboo trees along Green Lake Park in Kunming reflected sharply in the calm lake under a blue sky.

A spring day in the Spring City — bamboo and sky doubled in the water.

Colorful and intricately decorated pagoda at Green Lake Park in Kunming with ornate roof details and bright painted beams.

An intricate, playful burst of color

Bonsai tree displayed in Green Lake Park in Kunming, with layered branches and surrounding park elements in the background.

Bonsais appear in every park, in endless shapes and sizes. Somehow, they rarely quite translate onto a flat photograph.

Van Gogh Starry-Night Art Museum

The famous Van Gogh exhibition had been on my list for years. I missed it in Vancouver — so immersing myself in this very different kind of park felt long overdue.